2011-10-21

Third Attempt at a Homemade DIY Table Tennis Racket

Why I Need to Build Another Racket
My first racket, when combined with LKT Rapid Speed 2.0 rubber on both sides, weighs 220 grams.  That's 130 for the 7 ply fiberglass reinforced blade, plus 90 for the rubber and rubber cement used to glue it on.  I played with it for an hour and it's too heavy.  Okay for predictably looping the forehand, pleasant to smash with, but horrible for backhands, where the wrist is more involved.  And because I didn't build up the handle enough, I always had the impression it might slip out of my hand and kill someone.

Who knew building a ping pong paddle could be so hard?  I felt I had to do a few things differently:
  1. Lay off the fiberglass.  The fabric I have is too thick, I think, and it brings in way too much plastic resin.  It's a theory.
  2. Use clamps instead of weight to form the laminate.  I need to drive more of the glue out, thin out the glue lines.  Glue provides little strength on its own.
  3. Less layers and a bigger, monolithic core.
I also rough-cut a piece of birch plywood to shape, to see how the weight came in.  
Left to right:  original 3 ply butt joined blade proof of concept, 80g; finished 7 ply blade, 130g; 2x LKT Rapid Speed with leftover rubber cement, 90g; rough-cut birch blade, 104g
Not good enough.  So I began to calculate.  The idea was to calculate the weight of a cut out blade based on a ratio from the 6"x10" whole board. That way, I could measure the boards going into the paddle and determine how it would turn out in advance.  I used the birch plywood and the remainder pieces as my sample, and calculated a bunch of stuff from it.
These calculations are all crap
The problem is that the birch plywood I started with was not cut to the final 10" length, but 12".  So my golden ratio of 0.57 was relatively useless.  And I didn't feel like doing it again.  I wanted action, not words!  I still think this is a good idea, though.  I really should do it.

So my next attempt was a 5 ply:  3/16" balsa core, two transverse 1/32" basswood plies, and finally two longitudinal 1/32" basswood plies.  All this wood came from National Balsa, which has been my choice of suppliers so far.  I didn't even pay for the balsa.  It came as part of the packing, to prevent my 6" wide 1/32" thick basswood sheets from breaking.  Sweet.

Here We Go
Per my new plan, this time I clamped rather than weighted.


Those are 1/2" granite tiles on an old desk, with a length of oak on top to keep the metal off the stone.  The glue is two part epoxy left over from my guitar project.  Next I needed a method to measure mass, or Earth weight.
This scale is a 500g model from Harbor Freight for ~$13.  It works consistently.
Once the piece cured and I cut it to shape, minus a couple millimeters per side to cut the weight further and make it easy to fit my old rubber sheets, it was about 87 grams.  Too much, so I hollowed the handle.
Blade with hollowed handle section.
I do all this work with a bandsaw, files, a Stanley SurForm cheese crater, and 100 grit sandpaper.  While I have a router, I do not have a router table.  That's why it looks totally unprofessional - I don't make templates and route around them.
Handles ready to be applied.
I decided I didn't need the end to be closed.  I broke it out completely.  The handles are more 3/16" balsa plus a layer of 1/16" basswood on top.  The completed blade is a good weight, IMO.
Completed blade, 91.2 grams
LKT Rapid Speed rubber reapplied and trimmed.
Assembled racket, 175.4 grams
Not bad!  Nearly 45 grams lighter than that beast I built the first time.

Playing Impressions
The completed paddle is in line with "real" paddles I've played with in the past.  Again, the handle isn't thick enough, thus the hockey tape.  I can flip the backhand much better than the 220gr monster, and it's only 5gr heavier than my friends preassembled Stiga Cannon.  It is of course much spinnier and hard to handle.

I am not a rater player, I haven't even come out of the basement yet, so I don't know how this blade and combination rates.  ALL?  OFF?  Who knows.

Now I have to get used to playing "real" rubber again.  The old monster blade, at 130gr naked, will be converted into a sandpaper paddle.

Relative Paddle Weights
  • "Ping Pong, the Original" 4 pack of preassembled paddles: 135g - 141g
  • Stiga Cannon preassembled paddle: 171g
  • My second blade, the "beast": 130g
  • My third attempt, hollow handle:  91g

5 comments:

  1. Hello, my name is Christopher. I stumbled upon your self-made table tennis rackets while looking for a going away present for my best friend. My best friend is named Chad and we have been inseparable since we first met over nine years ago. He first introduced me to ping pong about four years ago. I enjoyed playing with him and we played a lot. I thought it was just some game, but he took it very seriously. Eventually I starting having a passion for it. We started playing for hours on end, many times a week. We started becoming decent and using spins and playing farther away from the table. We now are extremely busy with school and AP classes and we don't get to play very much, but we love it when we do. Well, he is headed to college soon and I want to give him a going away present. I want to get him a really nice racket. However, I am still in high school and cannot afford a nice paddle. I've been saving up for about a year now and I barely have enough for some pretty nice rubbers for the racket. I was hoping that you may consider making a simple blade that I could purchase for very little. I realize it takes time, money, and effort, but if you could help me show my friend how much I appreciate him introducing me to this awesome pastime, that would be amazing. Please contact me via email, or text me at 801-404-2580. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this.

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  2. Christopher,

    Sorry. I'm out of materials, and I doubt I could make a blade more cheaply than you could buy one. It turns out you don't build something like this hoping to save money - it actually costs more, even factoring out startup costs like the epoxy, clamps and tools. What I would do is put the rubber on a blade you already have from a store-bought pre-made. That's what I'm going to do next time.

    Good luck,
    Matt

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  5. Great post, thanks!

    Graphite / aluminum pickleball paddles on the market come in at 7-8 ounces. Wooden pickleball paddles come in around 9-14 ounces. Thoughts on making it down to 7-8 ounces (without sacrificing on paddle size, i.e. making the dimensions of the paddle surface area smaller)? Fyi, max allowed paddle area is 24", i.e. anything that adds up to 24 (8x16, 14x10). As it stands, the wooden paddles go for smaller dimensions in order to reduce weight, whereas the graphite/aluminum core are always full size.

    And great idea to hollow out the handle! For that matter, what do you think of having the inner plies have a checkerboard cutout pattern, in order to reduce the weight while keeping the structure mostly intact?

    My current plan is to try creating a 3-ply (1/16" ash, 1/16" poplar, 1/16" ash) paddle.

    Interesting use of glues. Have you considered hide glue (for the purposes of going green, among other reasons)?

    Cheers!

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