Acoustic Refret, Nut and Bridge Shave

I've got an 80's Harmony acoustic, given to me by my brother.  It has a terrible high action.  The neck doesn't seem messed up, and the soundboard isn't too bellied out.  I don't want to reset the neck because it's a bit of a big step that requires tools that would cost real money:  steam and all kinds of things.  I know I could slap something together from junk, but in my experience junk (and connecting junk to junk) costs real money.

So for my next project, I'm going to try to lower the action on this guitar - backwards:

• Put gigantor frets on it
• Redo the nut to compensate
• Shave the bridge
• Perhaps convert the bridge from an adjustable-height bridge, which seems to take up precious verticality, to a fixed height
• Put in a brass plate below the bridge plate to prevent the string ball ends from tearing up the soft wood down there.  StewMac wants $12 for this but I can make one for more like 20 cents.

Here's the old adjustable bridge:

 It won't go low enough.  I think I'll have to shave the bridge down too.  That will come after the refret, once I see the action I'm getting.

Here are the strips of feeler gauge I'm using to protect the very soft fretboard against the heel of my fret-removal chisels:

I don't have a fancy fret-removing end cutter that's ground down so the cutting edges are flush with the flat face. These chisels work beautifully.  I do guess that there's a slight outside chance of a truly horrifying accident, if one of the chisels comes loose, rides up the other chisel and unzips the flesh of my forearm.  That would suck.  But I didn't get the feeling that was likely to happen.  There's not a lot of force involved in this; the trick is getting a sharp edge under the metal/wood interface.

I'll be ordering fret wire and replacement blank nut and and bridge this week.