Fingerboard Attachement and Neck Profiling

I made a lot of progress and failed to document it.  I got excited, and I wanted to get a lot done this week.

The fingerboard is attached to the neck.  I first cut it almost to width.  I put a staple in either end of the neck, pulled one leg of each out, and cut them into a low point.  This helped to locate the fingerboard on the neck when I pressed it to the neck face.  I then wrapped the neck with 3 yards of waistband elastic from a craft store - I got the idea from a StewMac how-to email, but I declined to buy a full pound of 40" elastic bands from them.  What would I ever do with them?  After that I placed a straightedge on the face of the board and weighed it down.

The back is nearly profiled:

I clamp the neck to the edge of the workbench like so, on a piece of hardboard with some carpet padding on it to protect the fingerboard:

The epoxy layers actually help the contouring process - when they're roughly parallel or diverging at a constant angle, you're making a regular shape.  The neck is going to be a pretty pronounced vee shape.  There are two reasons for this:

1. Easier for me to profile - flat is simpler than curved
2. I need to keep the neck thickness pretty high overall to keep enough wood/glass back of the truss rod, so the rod doesn't blow out, but that makes for a very chunky neck.  I can get my hand around it better if I flatten the curve and make a vee
3. Bonus reason:  it just happened and there's no going back

I'm doing all this work with the Surform loaded with a convex grater, and a round rat tail file with big teeth.  It makes a giant mess, but the bits are heavier than air and thus far less dangerous.